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Oriane Bertone

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Oriane Bertone
Oriane Bertone, Giravuelta
Personal information
NationalityFrench
Born (2005-03-10) March 10, 2005 (age 21)
Nice, France
Height167 cm (5 ft 6 in)
Climbing career
Ape index+16cm (6 in)
Highest grade
Known forYoungest person to solve a V14 (8B+) boulder problem
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing  France
World Championships
Silver medal – second place2023 BernBouldering
Silver medal – second place2025 SeoulBouldering
World Cup
Gold medal – first placePrague 2025Bouldering
Gold medal – first placePrague 2023Bouldering
Silver medal – second placeInnsbruck 2025Bouldering
Silver medal – second placeCuritiba 2025Bouldering
Silver medal – second placeKeqiao 2025Bouldering
Silver medal – second placeSalt Lake City 2024Bouldering
Silver medal – second placeSalt Lake City 2023Bouldering
Silver medal – second placeSeoul 2023Bouldering
Silver medal – second placeSeoul 2022Bouldering
Silver medal – second placeSalt Lake City 2021Bouldering
Silver medal – second placeMeiringen 2021Bouldering
Bronze medal – third placeMadrid 2026Bouldering
European Championships
Gold medal – first place2026 BarcelonaBouldering
Bronze medal – third place2022 MunichBouldering

Oriane Bertone (born March 10, 2005) is a French rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, but is also noted for her sport climbing and her bouldering.

Climbing career

[edit]

Rock climbing

[edit]

In 2018, when she was 12 years old, Bertone became the youngest climber to send a V14 (8B+) graded boulder problem when she solved Golden Shadow in Rocklands (South Africa).[1] In 2020, aged 14, she redpointed the sport climbing route, Panonoramix et les cyclopes, in Saint Léger at grade 8c+ (5.14c).

Competition climbing

[edit]

In 2019, she started competing in international youth competition climbing events, where she won multiple gold medals in both competition lead climbing and competition bouldering.

In 2021, Bertone made her IFSC Climbing World Cup debut at age 16 at the Boulder World Cup in Meiringen, where she advanced to the final and won a silver medal.[2]

In 2023, Bertone won her first IFSC Climbing World Cup gold medal at the Boulder World Cup in Prague, beating Janja Garnbret in doing so.[3] She went on to win a silver medal in bouldering at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships and secure a spot for the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris by placing first in the European Boulder and Lead Climbing Olympic Qualifier.[4][5]

In 2024, Bertone finished in eighth place in the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.[6]

In Feb 2026, she won the inaugural Pro Climbing League in London, beating Janja Garnbret in the final.

Personal life

[edit]

Bertone was born in Nice in 2005, and grew up on the island of Réunion, a territory of France, to an Italian father and French mother.[7] [8]

Her younger brother Max Bertone [fr] is also a climber who has competed at World Cup level since 2024.[9][10]

Rankings

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Source:[11]

European Youth Championships

[edit]
Discipline 2019

Youth B

Boulder 1
Lead 1

Youth World Championships

[edit]
Discipline 2019

Youth B

Boulder 1
Lead 1

European Championships

[edit]
Discipline 2022
Boulder 3

IFSC Climbing World Cup Overall Ranking

[edit]
Discipline 2021 2022 2023 2024 2025
Boulder 3 6 4 10 1

IFSC World Cup

[edit]

Source:[12]

Podiums

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Season First Second Third Total
202122
202211
2023123
2024 1 1
2025 1 3 4
2026 1 1
Total29112

Notable ascents

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Boulder problems

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8C (V15):

  • Satan I Helvete - Bas, Fontainebleau (France) - 2020 [13]

8B+ (V14):

8B (V13):

  • Psychopad - Réunion - 2017[15]
  • Le Spartiate direct assis - Réunion - 2018[16]
  • Fragile Steps - RockLands (South Africa) - 2017[17]
  • Trafic - Fontainebleau - 2018
  • The master Key - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2019
  • Bio Affinity - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2019
  • Ray of light - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
  • Leopard cave extended - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
  • Agamemnon - Rocklands (South Africa) - 2020
  • Fata I Helvete - Fontainebleau - 2020

Redpointed routes

[edit]

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

References

[edit]
  1. 1 2 "12-year-old Oriane Bertone boulders 8B+". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-09-29.
  2. ↑ "Gold for Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra at Meiringen Boulder World Cup". Gripped. 17 April 2021.
  3. ↑ "Bertone and Lee take Gold at Prague Boulder WC | Climber Magazine". www.climber.co.uk. Retrieved 2024-09-14.
  4. ↑ Neyer, Eric (2023-08-13). "2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Bern, Switzerland". Climbing House. Retrieved 2024-09-14.
  5. ↑ "OLYMPIC TICKETS TO PARIS 2024 AWARDED TO ORIANE BERTONE AND TOBY ROBERTS". October 29, 2023. Retrieved October 29, 2023.
  6. ↑ "NEWS: Paris 2024 Sport Climbing: Women's Boulder & Lead Final - "even sweeter" Gold for Garnbret". www.ukclimbing.com. 2024-08-10. Retrieved 2024-09-14.
  7. ↑ "Oriane Bertone". Olympics.com. 2023-09-24. Retrieved 2024-07-29.
  8. ↑ "Oriane Bertone". e9planet.com. Retrieved 2024-08-10.
  9. ↑ https://www.worldclimbing.com/athlete/12480/max-bertone
  10. ↑ https://www.instagram.com/max.bertone/?hl=en
  11. ↑ "Profile and ranking of Oriane Bertone". www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  12. ↑ "Official website of the International Federation of Sport Climbing". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2025-06-15.
  13. ↑ "Oriane Bertone, 15 Years Old, Climbs V15 First Ascent!". RockandIce.com. 27 May 2020. Retrieved 2020-05-27.
  14. ↑ Brown, Nick (18 January 2021). "15-Year-Old Oriane Bertone Climbs Font 8B+".
  15. ↑ "Psychopad, second 8B | V13 by Oriane Bertone". OnBouldering.com. 2017-12-12. Retrieved 2019-09-29.
  16. ↑ Grimper. "Oriane Bertone ouvre un nouveau bloc extrême à la Réunion et propose 8b". Grimper.com : l'actualité de l'escalade, tests matériel d'escalade, salles d'escalade (in French). Retrieved 2019-09-29.
  17. ↑ Staff, Climbing (20 January 2017). "Oriane Bertone Sends V13 at Age 11". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2019-09-29.
  18. ↑ Grimper. "Oriane Bertone s'offre un 8c/8c+". Grimper.com : l'actualité de l'escalade, tests matériel d'escalade, salles d'escalade (in French). Retrieved 2019-09-29.
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