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Kibbeh

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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Kibbeh
Fried kibbeh raas (nabulsi kibbeh)
CourseMeze
Place of originSyria, Egypt, Iraq, Jordan, Armenia, Lebanon, Israel, Palestine, Turkey
Region or stateLevant, Mesopotamia, Caucasus, East Mediterranean
Serving temperatureHot (or raw as kibbeh nayyeh)
Main ingredientsFinely ground meat, cracked wheat (bulgur), and Levantine spices
  • Wikibooks logo Cookbook: Kibbeh
  •  Wikimedia Commons logo Media: Kibbeh

Kibbeh (/ˈkɪbi/, also kubba and other spellings; Arabic: كبّة, romanized: kibba; Egyptian Arabic: كبيبة, romanized: kobeba) is a popular dish in the Arab world and the Levant in particular, made of spiced lean ground meat and bulgur wheat. Kibbeh is considered to be a national dish of Lebanon and Syria.[1][2][3][4][5][6]

In Levantine cuisine, kibbeh is made by pounding bulgur wheat together with meat into a fine paste and forming it into ovoid shapes, with toasted pine nuts and spices. It may also be layered and cooked on a tray, deep-fried, grilled, or served raw.[7] The Syrian city of Aleppo can lay claim to at least 17 types of kibbeh.[8] In Mesopotamian cuisine, versions with rice or farina are found.[9]

Outside of Lebanon and Syria,[1] versions are found in Cyprus, Egypt, Israel, Palestine, the Persian Gulf, Armenia, and Turkey,[4] and among Assyrian people.[10] It is also found throughout Latin American countries that received substantial numbers of immigrants from the Levant during the late 19th and early 20th centuries,[11] as well as parts of North America.[12]

Etymology

The modern word kibbeh (كبة) is derived from the Arabic root k-b-b (ك-ب-ب).[13][14][15]

The use of kubbeh to designate stuffed food may have also been derived from the Akkadian language kubbu.[15]

The 10th century cookbook by Ibn Sayyar al-Warraq referred to meatballs as kubab (singular kubba).[15]

History

As noted by food historian Nawal Nasrallah, the earliest mention of modern kibbeh, made with a filled shell of ground meat and grains, is in the 18th century work Taj al-'Arus min Jawahir al-Qamus. The text describes it as a disk of ground meat and rice flour made by the people of "al-Sham" (the Levant).[15]

American Methodist missionary William McClure Thomson noted in his memoirs during his 1847 visit to Lebanon that kibbeh, then made by crushing wheat in mortar and pestle, was very popular.[16] He described it as "the national dish of the Arabs", despite its association with the Levant.[17][16] Swedish Orientalist Jacob Berggren [sv] described 8 types of kibbeh in his 1844 dictionary, and also mentioned a proverb about its social importance: "[...], without our koubbé, we would all have died".[18]

The 1885 Beirut cookbook Ustadh al-Tabbakhin by author Khalil Khattar Sarkis [ar] provided 15 kibbeh recipes, including recipes for kibbeh labaniyyeh, kiyyeh bil siniyyeh, kibbeh mashwiyyeh, among others.[16] The Comparative Encyclopedia of Aleppo by Syrian author Khayr al-Din al-Asadi (completed in 1971, published posthumously in 1981) described 58 different kinds of kibbeh.[19]

Variations

Levant

Kibbeh nayyeh

Kibbeh nayyeh is a raw dish made from a mixture of bulgur, very finely minced lamb or beef similar to steak tartare, and Levantine spices, served on a platter, frequently as part of a meze in Lebanon and Syria, garnished with mint leaves and olive oil, and served with green onions or scallions, green hot peppers, and pita or markouk bread.[3] Because kibbeh nayyeh is raw, it requires high-quality meat to prepare and has been seen as a traditional way to honor guests.[4]

Levantine kibbeh labaniyeh

Kibbeh labaniyeh (Arabic: كبة لبنية) is a variant of kibbeh cooked in a yoghurt sauce and served over rice. It is popular in Lebanon and Syria.[20][21] kibbeh mishwiyyeh (Arabic: كبة مشوية) is kibbeh that is grilled rather than fried.[22][16]

Kibbeh bil siniyeh (Levantine Arabic: كبة بالصينية) is a variation of kibbeh in which the meat stuffing is sandwiched between two layers of kibbeh dough and then baked; it is popular in Lebanon and Syria.[23][24][25]

Kibbeh bil siniyeh (baked kibbeh in a tray)

Lebanon

In Lebanon, meatless versions of kibbeh exist, and are sometimes called "poor man's kibbe". The stuffing is made with onions, walnuts, and wheat.[26][27][23][25] Kibbet samak, made using fish, is popular among Sunni Muslims in North Lebanon.[6]

Potato kibbeh is a variation of kibbeh in which potato is mixed with the bulgur. It is often assembled in three layers: a potato layer, followed by the meat filling, then another potato layer on top. Author Claudia Roden describes it as an "oriental shepherd's pie."[28][23] It is especially popular in Lebanon.[29]

Syria

The city of Aleppo, Syria, is known for its many varieties of kibbe.[30] These include kibbeh prepared with sumac (kibbe sumāqiyye),[31] yogurt (kibbe labaniyye), quince (kibbe safarjaliyye),[32] lemon juice (kibbe ḥāmḍa),[23] pomegranate sauce (kibbeh rummaniyeh),[33] cherry sauce, and other varieties, such as "disk" kibbeh (kibbe arāṣ), "plate" kibbeh (kibbe biṣfīḥa or kibbe bṣēniyye) and raw kibbeh (kibbeh nayyeh).[citation needed][34] Kibbeh sajiyeh (Arabic: كبة صاجية) is kibbeh shaped into a thin disk with a meat filling that is traditionally dipped in a yogurt sauce.[24][35]

A Syrian soup known as kubbi kishk consists of kubbi ("torpedoes" or "footballs") in a yogurt (kishk) and butter broth with stewed cabbage leaves. Another soup, known as kibbeh hamda, consists of chicken stock with vegetables (usually leeks, celery, turnips and courgettes), lemon juice and garlic, with small kibbeh made with ground rice as dumplings.[33][36] In the Syrian Jewish diaspora this dish is popular both for Pesach and as the pre-fast meal on the day before Yom Kippur.[37]

Iraq

Kibbeh Moselleyh from Mosul

Kubba Mosul from Iraq is flat and round like a disc, named after the city of Mosul.[4] Kubba Halab is an Iraqi version of kibbeh created with a rice and potato crust and named after the largest city in Syria, Aleppo.[38][39] Kubbat shorba is an Iraqi and Kurdish version prepared as a stew, commonly made with turnips and chard in a tomato-based stew. It is often served with arak and various salads.[40]

Among Kurdish Jews, there is a kubba soup flavored with aromatic thyme leaves during winter.[41]

Israel

When Jews fled Iraq in the 1940s, 90 percent went to Israel, bringing traditional dishes with them. As a result, kubbeh is now a strong part of Israeli cuisine. Sometimes it is fried, and sometimes it is cooked in a soup.[42]

Turkey

In Turkey, kibbeh is called içli köfte.[3] The outside shell can be made without[43] or with tomato paste[44] in different recipes.

Several variants of içli köfte are protected as geographical indications by the Turkish Patent and Trademark Office:

  • The Adana variety of içli köfte.[45][46] It is a grilled, skewer-cooked form of içli köfte.[45][47][48]
  • Malatya içli köftesi is a bulgur meatball that is boiled rather than fried.[49][50]
  • Polat içli köftesi is a boiled bulgur meatball with beef and onion filling.[51][52]

Egypt

In Egypt, kibbeh is referred to as kobeba (Egyptian Arabic: كبيبة).[53] Seafood variations of kobeba exist, such as shrimp kobeba, popular in Port Said.[54][55]

Latin America

Brazil

Fried quibe (Brazil)

Brazilian quibe is sometimes stuffed with Catupiry or another variety of requeijão, a sauce resembling ricotta and cream cheese. Most Brazilian quibe uses only ground beef, but other variations use tahini, carne de soja (texturized soy protein), seitan (Japanese wheat gluten-based meat substitute) or tofu (soybean curd) as stuffing.[56]

In the Brazilian state of Acre, a variation of quibe called quibe de arroz (rice kibbeh) is made with a rice flour breading. It was created by Arab immigrants to Brazil who had no access to wheat in the remote Amazon region of Brazil.[57]

Colombia

On Colombia's Caribbean coast, most local variations of the dish use ground beef instead of lamb, but the original recipe, or one with a mixture of beef and lamb, can be found served by the large Lebanese and Syrian population of the area.[58] The dish has acquired almost vernacular presence and is frequently served in social occasions at both Arab and non-Arab households. When served as an adopted local dish, it is offered often as a starter along with other regional specialties, including empanadas, deditos and carimañolas.[59]

Dominican Republic

The Dominican version was brought to the Dominican Republic by Lebanese immigrants.[60]

Mexico

Some regional Syrian and Lebanese dishes combine kibbeh with elements taken from Latin American cuisine; for example, it is typical of Syrian Mexicans to eat traditional kibbeh with salsa verde.[61]

Culture

Uncooked kibbeh being prepared

Kibbeh is considered by many to be a difficult dish to prepare, and as such, the quality of kibbeh is considered to be a benchmark for the skill of a cook in Iraq and the Levant.[3][15][62] Numerous mentions of kibbeh can be found in Aleppo Arabic folk proverbs.[19]

See also

References

  1. 1 2 "Top 10 National Dishes". National Geographic. 13 September 2011. Archived from the original on 14 October 2016. Retrieved 8 August 2020.
  2. ↑ George, Maria (2019). Mediterranean Cuisine: Flavors for a Healthier You. Meadville: Christian Faith Publishing. p. 301. ISBN 978-1-64515-991-9.
  3. 1 2 3 4 Marks, Gil (2010). Encyclopedia of Jewish Food. Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. ISBN 978-0-544-18631-6.
  4. 1 2 3 4 Davidson, Alan (2014). Jaine, Tom (ed.). The Oxford Companion to Food (3rd ed.). Oxford: Oxford University Press. pp. 244, 444–445. ISBN 9780191040726.
  5. ↑ Howell, Sally (2000). Abraham, Nabeel; Shryock, Andrew (eds.). Arab Detroit: From Margin to Mainstream. Detroit: Wayne State University Press. ISBN 9780814328125.
  6. 1 2 Helou, Anissa (2018). Feast: Food of the Islamic World. Bloomsbury Publishing. ISBN 9781526605566.
  7. ↑ Perry, Charles (2006). "kibbeh". In Davidson, Alan; Jaine, Tom (eds.). The Oxford Companion to Food (2nd ed.). Oxford University Press. ISBN 978-0-19-280681-9. Archived from the original on 28 November 2022.
  8. ↑ Khalaf, Hala (9 August 2018). "A guide to kibbeh". The National. Archived from the original on 19 February 2026. Retrieved 24 April 2024.
  9. ↑ Ciezadlo, Annia (2012). Day of Honey: A Memoir of Food, Love, and War. Free Press. p. 361. ISBN 978-1-4391-5753-4.
  10. ↑ van der Velde, Jeannette (2010). "Persia (Iran)". In Edelstein, Sari (ed.). Food, Cuisine, and Cultural Competency for Culinary, Hospitality, and Nutrition Professionals. Jones and Bartlett. p. 594. ISBN 9781449618117.
  11. ↑ Brown, Ellen (2020). Meatballs: The Ultimate Cookbook. Appleseed Press Book Publishers. ISBN 978-1-64643-014-7.
  12. ↑ Nelson, Davia; Silva, Nikki (31 January 2008). "Kibbe at the Crossroads: A Lebanese Kitchen Story". NPR. Archived from the original on 29 October 2012. Retrieved 13 November 2017.
  13. ↑ "تعريف و معنى كبة في معجم المعاني الجامع - معجم عربي عربي". Almaany (in Arabic). Retrieved 16 November 2025.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  14. ↑ Dozy, Reinhart Pieter Anne (1927). Supplément aux Dictionnaires Arabes [Supplement to Arabic Dictionaries] (in French). Vol. 2 (2nd ed.). p. 36. Archived from the original on 26 December 2025. Retrieved 16 November 2025 – via BnF Gallica.
  15. 1 2 3 4 5 Nasrallah, Nawal (2013). "Stuffed Foods". Delights from the Garden of Eden: A Cookbook and History of the Iraqi Cuisine. Equinox Publishing. ISBN 978-1-84553-457-8. Archived from the original on 7 October 2025. Retrieved 15 November 2025.
  16. 1 2 3 4 Pitts, Graham Auman; Kabalan, Michel (2021). "When Did Kibbe Become Lebanese? The Social Origins of National Food Culture". In Gaul, Anny; Pitts, Graham Auman; Valosik, Vicki (eds.). Making Levantine Cuisine: Modern Foodways of the Eastern Mediterranean. Austin: University of Texas Press. ISBN 978-1-4773-2459-2. Retrieved 8 December 2025.
  17. ↑ Thomson, William McClure (1859). The Land and the Book; Or, Biblical Illustrations Drawn from the Manners and Customs, the Scenes and Scenery of the Holy Land. Vol. 1. New York: Harper & Brothers. p. 129 – via Google Books. He is braying wheat with a pestle in a mortar, to make kibby, the national dish of the Arabs, and a very good one it is. Every family has one or more of these large stone mortars, and you may hear the sound of the "braying" at all hours as you walk the streets of the city.
  18. ↑ Berggren, Jakob (1844). Guide Français-Arabe Vulgaire des Voyageurs et des Francs en Syrie et en Égypte [A French-Arabic Guide for Travelers and Franks in Syria and Egypt] (in French). Leffler et Sebell. pp. 267–268. Retrieved 24 January 2026 – via Google Books.
  19. 1 2 al-Asadi, Khayr al-Din (1981). موسوعة حلب المقارنة [Comparative Encyclopedia of Aleppo] (in Arabic). pp. 2460–2465. Retrieved 20 December 2025 – via Internet Archive.
  20. ↑ Vartanian Datian, Christine (5 December 2024). "Recipe Corner: Lebanese & Syrian Meat and Bulgur Balls in Yoghurt (Kibbeh Labaniyya)". The Armenian Mirror-Spectator. Archived from the original on 1 September 2025. Retrieved 14 August 2025.
  21. ↑ Fox, Tessa (1 January 2024). "Kibbeh labaniyeh: Lebanese meatballs to start a new year". BBC. Archived from the original on 25 July 2025. Retrieved 14 August 2025.
  22. ↑ Shamsi-Basha, Karim (26 March 2025). "Eid al-Fitr conjures up my fondest childhood memories". NJ.com. Advance Local. Archived from the original on 22 December 2025. Retrieved 8 December 2025.
  23. 1 2 3 4 Roden, Claudia (2018). A New Book of Middle Eastern Food. Penguin Books Limited. ISBN 978-1-4059-3778-8. Archived from the original on 20 August 2025. Retrieved 6 October 2025.
  24. 1 2 Burum, Linda (19 August 2013). "Aleppo's Kitchen: For rarely found Syrian specialties". Los Angeles Times. Archived from the original on 14 November 2025. Retrieved 28 October 2025.
  25. 1 2 Sortun, Ana (17 December 2020). "Kibbeh Bil Sanieh". Food & Wine. People Inc. Archived from the original on 21 October 2024. Retrieved 28 October 2025.
  26. ↑ "أطباق رمضان بما تيسّر..." [Ramadan dishes made with whatever is available...]. Sawt Beirut (in Arabic). 3 April 2023. Archived from the original on 21 November 2025. Retrieved 6 October 2025.
  27. ↑ Hallak, Michel (25 October 2015). "تعرّف إلى كبّة "أبو آمنة" أو "كبّة الفقير" في عكار" [Discover "Abu Amneh's" or "poor man's" kibbeh in Akkar]. An-Nahar (in Arabic). Archived from the original on 21 November 2025. Retrieved 6 October 2025.
  28. ↑ "كبّة البطاطا... ابتكار لا يّقاوم" [Potato kibbeh... an irresistible innovation]. An-Nahar (in Arabic). 3 July 2022. Archived from the original on 29 December 2025. Retrieved 28 October 2025.
  29. ↑ Al-Hallak, Nadia (10 April 2019). "المطبخ اللبناني.. أكلات شهية "تغذي" ترتيبه عالميًا (تقرير)" [Lebanese cuisine: Delicious dishes that "feed" its global ranking (report)]. Anadolu Agency (in Arabic). Archived from the original on 22 November 2025. Retrieved 28 October 2025.
  30. ↑ Amos, Deborah (5 January 2010). "Food Lovers Discover The Joys Of Aleppo". NPR. Archived from the original on 18 January 2018. Retrieved 2 April 2018.
  31. ↑ Salama, Heba (6 June 2021). "طريقة عمل السماقية الفلسطينية والحلبية بخطوات بسيطة" [How to make Palestinian and Aleppo sumakiyya in simple steps]. E7kky.com (in Arabic). Archived from the original on 21 November 2025. Retrieved 5 October 2025.
  32. ↑ Al-Bashir, Abdullah (5 May 2021). ""وجبات حلب العريقة" على موائد المحتاجين" ["Aleppo's traditional meals" on the tables of the needy]. The New Arab (in Arabic). Archived from the original on 20 December 2025. Retrieved 6 October 2025.
  33. 1 2 Qaddoura, Kamal (25 November 2018). "تعرف على أنواع الكبة الحلبية" [Learn about the different types of Aleppo kibbeh]. Asharq Al-Awsat (in Arabic). Archived from the original on 21 November 2025. Retrieved 17 November 2025.
  34. ↑ Ezzat, Lama (11 July 2014). "الشيف محمد أورفه لي يستذكر رمضان وأكلاته في حلب" [Chef Mohammed Orfali reminisces about Ramadan and its dishes in Aleppo]. Zahrat al Khaleej (in Arabic). Archived from the original on 2 October 2025. Retrieved 21 September 2025.
  35. ↑ "كبة صاجية على الطريقة السورية" [Syrian-style kibbeh sajiah]. Al-Wasat (in Arabic). 27 July 2015. Archived from the original on 21 November 2025. Retrieved 28 October 2025.
  36. ↑ Roden, Claudia (1974). A Book of Middle Eastern Food. New York: Vintage Books. pp. 232–233. ISBN 0-394-71948-4. OCLC 622578 – via Internet Archive.
  37. ↑ Dweck, Poopa (2007). Aromas of Aleppo: The Legendary Cuisine of Syrian Jews. HarperCollins. p. 97. ISBN 9780062042644.
  38. ↑ Azzam, Iman (27 November 2019). "كبة او كبيبة الارز والبطاطس العراقية بالفيديو" [Iraqi rice and potato kibbeh (video)]. Al Gomhuria (in Arabic). Archived from the original on 21 November 2025. Retrieved 28 October 2025.
  39. ↑ "كبة حلب العراقية.. هناك أسباب وراء تسميتها" [Iraqi Aleppo kibbeh... there are reasons behind its name]. Ultrasawt (in Arabic). 27 May 2024. Archived from the original on 21 November 2025. Retrieved 28 October 2025.
  40. ↑ Ferst, Devra (10 August 2017). "An Iraqi-Kurdish-Israeli Dumpling Soup Makes Its Way To America". NPR. Archived from the original on 22 August 2023. Retrieved 2 September 2020.
  41. ↑ "אדוני רוצה עוד קובה? הצצה למטבח הכורדי". Ynet (in Hebrew). 8 February 2017. Archived from the original on 2 January 2024. Retrieved 2 January 2024.
  42. ↑ Martinelli, Katherine (14 December 2010). "Preserving Iraqi Jewish Heritage, One Kubbeh at a Time". Forward.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  43. ↑ "Haşlama içli köfte tarifi" [Recipe for boiled stuffed meatballs]. Hürriyet (in Turkish). 28 April 2026. Archived from the original on 29 April 2026. Retrieved 6 May 2026.
  44. ↑ "Kızartma İçli Köfte" [Kızartma İçli Köfte]. Nefis Yemek Tarifleri (in Turkish). 25 September 2019. Archived from the original on 19 May 2026. Retrieved 6 May 2026.
  45. 1 2 Bozkurt, Eren (12 June 2021). "Mangal ateşi Adana'nın tescilli içli köftesine lezzet kattı" [The charcoal grill added flavor to Adana's registered stuffed meatballs]. Anadolu Agency (in Turkish). Archived from the original on 25 December 2025. Retrieved 8 December 2025.
  46. ↑ "Adana İçli Köfte" [Adana Stuffed Meatballs]. Turkish Patent and Trademark Office (in Turkish). Archived from the original on 21 December 2025. Retrieved 8 December 2025.
  47. ↑ "Ağız sulandıran lezzet 'mangalda içli köfte' yoğun ilgi görüyor" [The mouthwatering delicacy 'grilled stuffed meatballs' is attracting great interest]. CNN Türk (in Turkish). 25 June 2019. Archived from the original on 6 January 2026. Retrieved 8 December 2025.
  48. ↑ "Mangalda içli köfte ilgi görüyor" [Grilled stuffed meatballs are attracting attention]. Yeni Şafak (in Turkish). Albayrak Medya. 25 June 2019. Archived from the original on 22 December 2025. Retrieved 8 December 2025.
  49. ↑ "Tescilli Malatya İçli Köftesi Türkiye'nin dört bir yanına ulaştırılacak" [The registered Malatya Stuffed Meatball will be delivered to all corners of Türkiye]. TRT Haber (in Turkish). 14 September 2021. Archived from the original on 13 December 2025. Retrieved 13 December 2025.
  50. ↑ "Malatya İçli Köftesi" [Malatya Stuffed Meatballs]. Turkish Patent and Trademark Office (in Turkish). Archived from the original on 3 February 2022. Retrieved 13 December 2025.
  51. ↑ "Polat İçli Köftesi / Polat Köftesi" [Polat Stuffed Meatballs / Polat Meatballs]. Turkish Patent and Trademark Office (in Turkish). Archived from the original on 20 December 2022. Retrieved 13 December 2025.
  52. ↑ "Polat İçli Köftesi Tescil Edildi" [Polat Stuffed Meatballs Registered as a Copyrighted Product]. Malatya Gazeteciler Cemiyeti (in Turkish). 19 January 2023. Archived from the original on 13 December 2025. Retrieved 13 December 2025.
  53. ↑ Nahas, Angela (14 June 2018). "Beef and cracked wheat slice (kobeba)". SBS Food. Archived from the original on 21 November 2025. Retrieved 6 October 2025.
  54. ↑ ""كبيبة الجمبري".. أسرار أشهر الأكلات البورسعيدية- صور" ["Shrimp Kibbeh": The Secrets of Port Said's Most Famous Dishes - Photos]. Masrawy (in Arabic). 16 December 2022. Archived from the original on 29 December 2025. Retrieved 6 October 2025.
  55. ↑ Sabih, Heba (9 July 2021). "طريقة عمل كبيبة الجمبري.. أشهى الأكلات البورسعيدية" [How to make shrimp kibbeh... one of the most delicious dishes from Port Said]. El Watan News (in Arabic). Archived from the original on 21 November 2025. Retrieved 6 October 2025.
  56. ↑ "Lebanese Brazilian Food: Fried Kibbeh". Texas de Brazil. 19 July 2022. Archived from the original on 13 August 2022.
  57. ↑ Menezes, Gabrielli (14 June 2021). "Culinária do Acre esbanja identidade e orgulho em cada prato; conheça" [Acre's cuisine exudes identity and pride in every dish; discover it]. Nossa UOL (in Brazilian Portuguese). Archived from the original on 14 June 2021. Retrieved 20 February 2024.
  58. ↑ Hourani, Albert; Shehadi, Nadim, eds. (1992). The Lebanese and the World: A Century of Emigration. I.B. Tauris. p. 365. ISBN 9781850433033.
  59. ↑ Cepeda, María Elena (2010). Musical ImagiNation: U.S-Colombian Identity and the Latin Music Boom. NYU Press. ISBN 978-0-8147-7290-4. OCLC 967261642 – via JSTOR.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  60. ↑ Janer, Zilkia; Smith, Andrew F. (2013). "Dominican American Food". In Smith, Andrew F. (ed.). Food and Drink in American History: A "Full Course" Encyclopedia. Vol. 1. Bloomsbury Publishing. ISBN 978-1-61069-233-5.
  61. ↑ Kershenovich Schuster, Paulette (2019). "Diffused Palates: Evolution of Culinary Tastes in Jewish Mexicans". In Ayora-Diaz, Steffan Igor (ed.). Taste, Politics, and Identities in Mexican Food. Bloomsbury Academic. p. 181. ISBN 978-1-350-06668-7.
  62. ↑ Ottolenghi, Yotam (20 January 2023). "This Soup Is Yotam Ottolenghi's Comfort Food". The New York Times Magazine. Archived from the original on 7 April 2023. Retrieved 15 November 2025.