Draft:Marco Sappa
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Submission declined on 22 September 2026 by SomeoneDreaming (talk). Declined by SomeoneDreaming 10 days ago. |  |
Submission declined on 28 June 2026 by SomeoneDreaming (talk). This draft's references do not show that the person meets Wikipedia's criteria for inclusion for people. The draft requires multiple published secondary sources that:
Declined by SomeoneDreaming 3 months ago.
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Comment: Did you use AI to help write the "Climbing career" section specifically? Thanks. msk 02:27, 29 September 2026 (UTC)- Comment: The Climbing History profile is not a reliable source as per the support page, it relies on user contributions, and looking at Marco Sappa's profile, it's collating stats from unreliable sources like Instagram and YouTube. The biography section is completely unreferenced. See user talk page for discussion User_talk:Marco_Sappa#Your_submission_at_Articles_for_creation:_Marco_Sappa_(June_28). SomeoneDreaming (talk) 12:45, 22 September 2026 (UTC)
- Comment: Most articles about him are self-written, and it's not great that that wasn't made clear when they were cited. Those that aren't mostly have generic author names which makes me think they are also non-independent. SomeoneDreaming (talk) 02:31, 28 June 2026 (UTC)
_in_December_2025.jpg) Marco Sappa in Canyonlands, United States, during the expedition for the repetition of the route Necronomicon. | |
| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Born | 6 March 1988 Aosta, Italy |
| Occupations | Mountain guide, professional climber |
| Climbing career | |
| Trad climbing, crack climbing, alpine climbing | |
| Highest grade |
|
| Known for | Sixth ascent of Necronomicon (8b+/5.14a), third ascent of La Pura Pura (8c/5.14b), and the first Italian free ascent of the Voie Petit on Grand Capucin. |
Marco Sappa (born 6 March 1988) is an Italian professional traditional and crack climber, as well as a certified UIAGM mountain guide.[1] He is best known internationally for his high-difficulty rock and crack climbing ascents, including Necronomicon (8b+/5.14a) in Canyonlands National Park,[2] La Pura Pura (8c/5.14b) in the Orco Valley,[3] and the first Italian free ascent of the Voie Petit on the Grand Capucin.[1]
Biography
[edit]Sappa grew up in the Aosta Valley. He works as a professional climber and certified UIAGM mountain guide, operating as an active member of the Courmayeur Alpine Guides Society.[1][4] He is a father of two children.[1]
Climbing career
[edit]Sappa specializes in traditional climbing, alpine routes, and crack climbing, with a focus on high-difficulty projects in Europe and the United States.[2]
After repeating the famous roof crack Greenspit (8b+) in 2020, Sappa spent four years working on the complete horizontal sequence under the same roof in the Orco Valley.[3] This process concluded in October 2024 with the third ascent of La Pura Pura (8c trad), a hybrid line created by Tom Randall that links Green Shadow (8a) with the crux of Greenspit.[3][5] In December 2025, he traveled to Moab, Utah, where he completed the sixth ascent of Necronomicon (8b+/5.14a), a 30-meter horizontal roof crack in Canyonlands National Park known for its physical intensity and technical feet-first sequences.[6][2]
In 2026, Sappa shifted his focus back to alpine multi-pitch routes alongside climbing partner Andrea Venturin. In June, the pair repeated Nicolas Potard's Golden Tower (8a max) on the limestone walls of the Tours d'Areu in Haute-Savoie.[7] In July of the same year, they achieved the first Italian free ascent of the Voie Petit (450 m, 8b max) on the east face of the Grand Capucin, a high-altitude granite route first opened in 1997 and freed by Alexander Huber in 2005.[1]
Notable ascents
[edit]- Voie Petit (8b max, 450 m), Grand Capucin, July 2026.[1]
- Golden Tower (8a max), Tours d'Areu, June 2026.[7]
- Necronomicon (8b+/5.14a trad), Canyonlands, December 2025.[2]
- La Pura Pura (8c/5.14b trad), Orco Valley, October 2024.[5]
- Sans Liberté (8b+/5.14a trad), Pic Adolphe Rey, July 2024.[1][2]
- Green Spit (8b+/5.14a trad), Orco Valley, October 2020.[5]
References
[edit]- 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 "Prima libera italiana della 'Voie Petit' per Marco Sappa". Lo Scarpone (in Italian). Club Alpino Italiano. 3 August 2026.
- 1 2 3 4 5 Sassi, Guido (18 December 2025). "Necronomicon, Marco Sappa ripete una delle fessure trad più difficili al mondo". Lo Scarpone (in Italian). Club Alpino Italiano.
- 1 2 3 "Marco Sappa repite 'La pura pura' 8c de fisura en Valle dell'Orco". Desnivel (in Spanish). 18 October 2024.
- ↑ "Società Guide Alpine Courmayeur". guidecourmayeur.com. Retrieved 22 September 2026.
- 1 2 3 Casolaro, Elena (24 October 2024). "Marco Sappa ripete La pura pura (8c trad) in Valle Orco" (in Italian).
- ↑ Pullan, Brandon (1 December 2025). "Wild 5.14 Roof Crack Necronomicon Climbed Again".
- 1 2 Colonia, Claudia (12 June 2026). "'Golden tower' per Marco Sappa alle Tours d'Areu" (in Italian). Club Alpino Italiano.
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