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Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou
Personal information
NationalityAmerican
Born (1963-05-08) May 8, 1963 (age 63)
Atlanta, Georgia
OccupationRock climbing coach
Height1.57 m (5 ft 2 in)
Weight43 kg (95 lb)
Websiteraboutoufamily.blogspot.com
Climbing career
Highest grade
Known forWinning 4 World Cups and 1 World Championship
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing  United States
World Championships
Gold medal – first place1995 GenevaLead
Silver medal – second place1993 InnsbruckLead
Bronze medal – third place1991 FrankfurtLead
World Cup
Bronze medal – third place1989Lead
Bronze medal – third place1991Lead
Winner1992Lead
Winner1993Lead
Winner1994Lead
Winner1995Lead
Rock Master
Winner1994Lead

Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou (born 8 May 1963), is an American rock climber and rock climbing coach. In competition lead climbing, she is a 4-time World Cup champion (1992, 1993, 1994, 1995), and won the biennial World Championships in 1995. She is the third woman to redpoint a 5.14a (8b+) graded sport climbing route. She has coached several competition climbers, including Natalia Grossman, Megan Mascarenas, Margo Hayes, Colin Duffy, Emily Harrington and her daughter, Brooke Raboutou.[1][2]

Early Life

[edit]

Erbesfield-Raboutou was born in 1963 in Georgia (U.S. state). She was introduced to climbing by a high school boyfriend when she was 18, and climbed in Little River Canyon, Sand Rock, Looking Glass Rock, and Chattanooga.[3]

Climbing career

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Competition climbing

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Erbesfield won the world's first Climbing World Cup (Leeds in 1989) as a relative unknown. She quickly gained sponsorship and travelled around the world to compete on the new World Cup circuit. She went on to win the overall title for four consecutive World Cups from 1992 to 1995.[1][4]

Rock climbing

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In 1993, she became the third woman to redpoint a 5.14a (8b+) with ascents of Silence and Attention Vous Regard in France.[5][6]

In the 90s she made the first ascents of Bad Attitude 5.14a (8b+) and No War More Love 5.14a (8b+) in Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val.[3]

In 2012, she redpointed Welcome to Tijuana 5.14b (8c) in Rodellar, Spain, becoming the oldest American woman to climb at that grade at 49.[7]

Coaching

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Erbesfield-Raboutou founded the coaching company ABC Kids Climbing in an upstairs room at the Boulder Rock Club, Boulder, Colorado in 2003, and 2012 they moved into their own space in East Boulder.[3] Her coaching focused on developing agility, balance, and coordination in young climbers. Many of its graduates are climbing 5.14 outdoor routes, and performing well in national and international climbing competitions.[8] Two of the four American athletes who qualified for the 2020 Olympics in sport climbing, Brooke Raboutou and Colin Duffy, were both members of Team ABC, which also produced Margo Hayes, the first woman to climb a 5.15a (9a+) route, and Natalia Grossman, the 2021 bouldering world champion.[9]

In 2018 she was inducted into the Boulder Sports Hall of fame.[10]

Personal life

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Erbesfield married French rock climber Didier Raboutou [fr] in 1993, and their two children, Brooke Raboutou and Shawn Raboutou, are themselves accomplished rock climbers.[4]

Rankings

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Climbing World Championships

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Discipline[11] 1991 1993 1995
Lead 3 2 1

Climbing World Cup

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Discipline[12] 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995
Lead 3 4 3 1 1 1 1

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

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Lead

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Season[11] Gold Silver Bronze Total
1989213
1990112
19911214
1992235
1993336
199444
19952114
Total1410428

Notable Climbs

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Redpointed

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8c (5.14b):

  • Welcome to Tijuana - Rodellar (ESP) - July 2012 - Her first 8c, at age 49 becoming the oldest American to climb the grade[13]

8b+ (5.14a):

  • Ixeia - Rodellar (ESP) - June 2012
  • Tripa de Conejo - Rodellar (ESP) - June 2012
  • God's Own Stone - Red River Gorge (USA) - April 1, 2012 - At age 48
  • Bad Attitude - Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val (FRA) - August 27, 2008 - At age 45[14]
  • Attention vos Regards - Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val (FRA) - 1993
  • Silence Vertical - Troubat (FRA) - 1993 - World's third female ascent of an 8b+ route.
  • Thunder Muscle - The Flatirons (USA) - 2018

On-sighted

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8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

  • Ramponeau - Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val (FRA) - 1992

Bibliography

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  • Noble, Chris (November 2013). Women Who Dare: North America's Most Inspiring Women Climbers. Falcon Guides. ISBN 978-0762783717.

See also

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References

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  1. 1 2 3 Fowke, Eddie (December 7, 2015). "Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou – pioneer and coach". The Circuit Climbing Magazine. Archived from the original on July 4, 2018.
  2. ↑ Emma Murray (August 5, 2016). "Record-setting Raboutous". Boulder Weekly. Retrieved May 17, 2018.
  3. 1 2 3 Flashman, Johanna (January 20, 2018). "Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou: The Veteran Coach Leading the New Generation of Climbers". Climbing.com. Retrieved July 15, 2026.
  4. 1 2 Johanna Flashman (January 20, 2018). "Robyn Esbesfield-Raboutou is coaching the next generation of crushers". Climbing. Retrieved January 5, 2022.
  5. ↑ "The formative years of cutting edge rock climbing" (PDF). BOLFA (Climbing Club of South Australia). 4 (6): 4. February 2006. Retrieved June 28, 2022.
  6. ↑ Averill, Graham (January 4, 2019). "Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou Wants to Fix Your Attitude". Outside Online. Retrieved July 15, 2026.
  7. ↑ "First 8c by Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou (49)". 8a.nu. July 22, 2012.
  8. ↑ Abbey Smith. "Our Members: How Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou Makes Kids into Elite Climbers". American Alpine Club. Archived from the original on May 17, 2018.
  9. ↑ Osius, Alison (July 29, 2021). "How Team ABC Built Two Olympic Climbers Brooke Raboutou and Colin Duffy". GymClimber. Retrieved January 5, 2021.
  10. ↑ Weidner, Chris (May 2018). "Chris Weidner: Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou and the ABCs of strength, commitment". Daily Camera. Retrieved July 15, 2026.
  11. 1 2 IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "Erbesfield's profile and rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
  12. ↑ IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved July 20, 2017.
  13. ↑ Pohl, Björn (July 20, 2012). "Robyn Erbesfield sends her first 8c". UK climbing. Retrieved July 15, 2026.
  14. ↑ MacDonald, Dougald (June 15, 2012). "Erbesfield-Raboutou: 5.14a at Age 45". Climbing.com. Retrieved May 17, 2018.
[edit]
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