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Hazel Findlay

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Hazel Findlay
Personal information
NationalityBritish
Born
Bristol, England, U.K.
EducationUniversity of Bristol, Bachelor of Arts (B.A.), Philosophy (2011)
Websitewww.hazel-findlay.com
Climbing career
Highest grade

Hazel Findlay (born May 1989) is a British traditional climber, sport climber and big wall climber. She was the first female British climber to climb a route graded E9, and a route graded 8c (5.14b). She did the third ascent of the Yosemite traditional route Magic Line 5.14c (8c+). She has free climbed El Capitán four times on four different routes and made many first female ascents on other routes. Climbing magazine gave her their Golden Piton Award [fr] (Alpine) for traditional climbing in 2013.

Biography

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Findlay was born in 1989,[1] the daughter of climber Steve Findlay.[2] She began climbing on the sea cliffs of Pembrokeshire with her father when she was six years old.[3][4] She became a six-time junior national rock climbing champion but gave up competition climbing in favor of traditional climbing.[1] She is a graduate of the University of Bristol, where she studied philosophy.[5] She lives in North Wales. She married climber Angus Kille in Las Vegas in 2023.

Notable climbs

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In 2019, Findlay made the 3rd ascent of Magic Line (2nd ascent placing gear), a route graded 5.14b/c (8c/+) at Vernal Fall in Yosemite National Park. She made the first female ascent of a British E9 grade climb with her June 2011 climb of Dave Birkett's route Once Upon a Time in the South West (E9 6c) at Dyer's Lookout in Devon.[2][6]

She is the first British woman to free climb El Capitán in Yosemite National Park, which she has done four times:[5] she made the first female ascent of Golden Gate in 2011,[3] the first female ascent of Pre-Muir Wall in 2012,[7] and an ascent of Freerider in only three days in 2013.[8] In 2017 she free-climbed the Salathé Wall.[9]

She was the first person to free-climb Adder Crack (5.13a), in Squamish, British Columbia, in 2012.[10] She was the first person to climb 'Tainted Love' in Squamish (5.13d). With Jack Geldard, she made the first ascent of the front face of the Aiguille de Saussure, a spire in the Mont Blanc massif, Chamonix, France, also in 2012.[11] In 2022, along with Alex Honnold, she made a first free ascent of Ingmikortilaq, a 3,750-foot wall and one of the world’s tallest monoliths, in Greenland.[12] A more complete list of Hazel's ascents can be found on theCrag.

Other first female ascents of trad routes by Findlay include:

As well as trad climbing, Findlay has also climbed sport climbing routes;[22] most notably:

  • In 2014, she climbed Fish Eye in Oliana, Spain, reaching a difficulty level of 8c/5.14b. Although not a first female ascent (the route had been climbed in 2010 by Daila Ojeda) it was the highest level attained by a British female climber.[23][24]
  • In 2017, she climbed Mind Control (8c), also in Oliana.[25]
  • In 2022, she climbed Esclatamasters (9a) in Catalonia, Spain.[26]

Awards and sponsorship

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Climbing magazine gave Findlay their Golden Piton Award [fr] for traditional climbing in 2013, citing climbs including Chicama and Freerider.[7]

She is professionally sponsored by Black Diamond Equipment, La Sportiva, Sea to Summit, Motion Nutrition.

She has launched a mental training business for climbers called "Strong Mind Climbing".

Filmography

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See also

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References

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  1. 1 2 Ambassadors – Hazel Findlay, La Sportiva, archived from the original on 16 February 2016, retrieved 11 October 2015.
  2. 1 2 "Hazel Findlay with the First Female Ascent of Once Upon a Time in the Southwest (E9 6c)", Rock & Ice, archived from the original on 4 March 2016, retrieved 11 October 2015.
  3. 1 2 McCarthy, James (30 May 2015), How climber Hazel Findlay conquered Yosemite's 3,000ft El Capitan in five days, WalesOnline.
  4. ↑ Kaikobad, Vera (28 May 2015), "On the Cover: Hazel Findlay", ClimbSkiBoulderMagazine, archived from the original on 12 January 2018, retrieved 11 October 2015.
  5. 1 2 Hazel Findlay, Black Diamond Equipment, archived from the original on 7 August 2019, retrieved 11 October 2015.
  6. ↑ Geldard, Jack (July 2011), Hazel Findlay and Charlie Woodburn – E9 – Details, UK Climbing.
  7. 1 2 MacDonald, Dougald (2013), "Golden Pitons 2013 – Traditional", Climbing, retrieved 11 October 2015.
  8. ↑ Campell, Duncan (October 2013), INTERVIEW: Hazel Findlay Climbs Freerider on El Cap, UK Climbing.
  9. ↑ "Hazel Findlay Frees Salathe Wall 5.13 on El Cap", Gripped, 1 December 2017
  10. ↑ Carpenter, Hayden (21 July 2015), "Vikki Weldon Makes Fourth Free Ascent of Adder Crack (5.13 R)", Rock & Ice, retrieved 11 January 2018.
  11. ↑ "Jack Geldard", Pro Team, DMM Climbing, archived from the original on 28 June 2017, retrieved 11 October 2015.
  12. ↑ @NatGeoUK (18 August 2022). "Alex Honnold just led the first ascent of one of Earth's tallest Arctic sea cliffs—for science". National Geographic. Retrieved 16 March 2024.
  13. ↑ MacDonald, Dougald (12 May 2010), "Hazel Findlay Does Air Sweden (5.13R)", Climbing.
  14. ↑ Gripped (31 August 2010), "Hazel and Marc-Andre Do 69", Gripped: The Climbing Magazine.
  15. ↑ Geldard, Jack (May 2011), Hazel Findlay Climbs San Simeon – E8, UK Climbing.
  16. ↑ "Watch Hazel Findlay Send A Hard Italian Crack", Gripped: The Climbing Magazine, 7 September 2015, retrieved 11 October 2015.
  17. ↑ Geldard, Jack (March 2013), Hazel Findlay on Chicama E9 6c – More Info and Photos, UK Climbing.
  18. ↑ Hazel Findlay FA of Trad Testpiece Tainted Love (5.13d), Squamish, Rock and Ice, 1 May 2018, archived from the original on 4 May 2018.
  19. 1 2 Top Achievements, Hazel Findlay, retrieved 20 January 2019.
  20. ↑ "Hazel Findlay Does "Magic Line," 5.14c Trad!", Rock and Ice, 26 November 2019.
  21. ↑ "Hazel Findlay makes fifth ascent of Mission Impossible", Climber, 23 September 2020, archived from the original on 14 December 2020, retrieved 1 October 2020
  22. ↑ Geldard, Jack (July 2012), Ceuse 8b for Hazel Findlay, UK Climbing
  23. ↑ "Hazel Findlay climbs 8c with Fish Eye", SA Mountain, 7 April 2014[permanent dead link].
  24. ↑ Gannaway, Ryan (8 April 2014), "Hazel Findlay Becomes the First British Woman to Climb 5.14b", Rock & Ice, archived from the original on 16 October 2015, retrieved 11 October 2015.
  25. ↑ Berry, Natalie (4 March 2017), Mind Control 8c by Hazel Findlay, UK Climbing, retrieved 28 February 2018
  26. ↑ Escalatamasters 9a by Hazel Findlay, UK Climbing, 11 March 2022, retrieved 28 January 2026
  27. ↑ "Sea fever: Classic climbs of Pembroke". MTNFILM. Retrieved 29 December 2025.
  28. ↑ "Monkey See Monkey Do". Hot Aches Productions. Retrieved 29 December 2025.
  29. ↑ "Reel Rock S1 E10: Spice girl". Red Bull. Retrieved 29 December 2025.
  30. ↑ "Reel Rock S4 E1: Break on through". Red Bull. Retrieved 29 December 2025.
  31. ↑ "Brit Rock II". Brit Rock Films. Retrieved 29 December 2025.
  32. ↑ "Pretty Strong". NEVER NOT COLLECTIVE. Retrieved 29 December 2025.
  33. ↑ "Reel Rock S7 E3: Action Directe". Red Bull. Retrieved 29 December 2025.
  34. ↑ "Reel Rock S7 E7: First ascent/last ascent part 1". Red Bull. Retrieved 29 December 2025.
  35. ↑ "Black Diamond Presents: Foiled with Hazel Findlay". YouTube. 3 May 2022. Retrieved 29 December 2025.
  36. ↑ "Reel Rock S10 E1: Yeah buddy – part 1". Red Bull. Retrieved 29 December 2025.
  37. ↑ "Finally: A Mainstream Film That Doesn't Mangle Climbing". Climbing Magazine. 27 June 2025. Retrieved 29 December 2025.
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