Draft:Marco Sappa
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| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Born | 6 March 1988 Aosta, Italy |
| Occupations | Mountain guide, professional climber |
| Climbing career | |
Marco Sappa (born 6 March 1988) is an Italian professional traditional and crack climber, as well as a certified UIAGM mountain guide.[1] He is best known internationally for his high-difficulty rock and crack climbing ascents, including Necronomicon (8b+/5.14a) in Canyonlands National Park,[2] La Pura Pura (8c/5.14b) in the Orco Valley,[3] and the first Italian free ascent of the Voie Petit on the Grand Capucin.[1]
Biography
[edit]Sappa grew up in the Aosta Valley. He works as a professional climber and certified UIAGM mountain guide, operating as an active member of the Courmayeur Alpine Guides Society.[1][4] He is a father of two children.[1]
Climbing career
[edit]Sappa specializes in high-difficulty traditional, alpine, and crack climbing.[2][3] Key ascents include:
- In October 2024, he completed the third ascent of La Pura Pura (8c/5.14b) in the Orco Valley.[5][3]
- In December 2025, he achieved the sixth ascent of the horizontal roof crack Necronomicon (8b+/5.14a) in Canyonlands National Park.[6][2]
- In June 2026, alongside Andrea Venturin, he made the first repeat of the multipitch route Golden Tower (8b max) at the Tours d'Areu in Haute-Savoie.[7]
- In July 2026, also with Venturin, he completed the first Italian free ascent of the 450-meter route Voie Petit (8b max) on the Grand Capucin.[1]
Notable ascents
[edit]- Voie Petit (8b max, 450 m), Grand Capucin, July 2026.[1]
- Golden Tower (8b max), Tours d'Areu, June 2026.[7]
- Necronomicon (8b+/5.14a trad), Canyonlands, December 2025.[2]
- La Pura Pura (8c/5.14b trad), Orco Valley, October 2024.[5]
- Sans Liberté (8b+/5.14a trad), Pic Adolphe Rey, July 2024.[1][2]
- Green Spit (8b+/5.14a trad), Orco Valley, October 2020.[5]
References
[edit]- 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 "Prima libera italiana della 'Voie Petit' per Marco Sappa". Lo Scarpone (in Italian). Club Alpino Italiano. 3 August 2026.
- 1 2 3 4 5 Sassi, Guido (18 December 2025). "Necronomicon, Marco Sappa ripete una delle fessure trad più difficili al mondo". Lo Scarpone (in Italian). Club Alpino Italiano.
- 1 2 3 "Marco Sappa repite 'La pura pura' 8c de fisura en Valle dell'Orco". Desnivel (in Spanish). 18 October 2024.
- ↑ "Società Guide Alpine Courmayeur". guidecourmayeur.com. Retrieved 22 September 2026.
- 1 2 3 Casolaro, Elena (24 October 2024). "Marco Sappa ripete La pura pura (8c trad) in Valle Orco". Montagna.tv (in Italian).
- ↑ Pullan, Brandon (1 December 2025). "Wild 5.14 Roof Crack Necronomicon Climbed Again". Gripped Magazine.
- 1 2 Colonia, Claudia (12 June 2026). "'Golden tower' per Marco Sappa alle Tours d'Areu". Lo Scarpone (in Italian). Club Alpino Italiano.